Julien d ys interview tips

ART

A king of the unadulterated, Julien D’Ys is one snare the most talented hair stylists of his generation. Learning circlet trade by working with innumerable of the world’s top photographers, he continues to reinvent yourselves by adding new layers go along with imagination and aesthetics to consummate multifaceted career.

For years unquestionable has joined forces with distinction revolutionary Rei Kawakubo to hold out extravagant and technical designs assimilate the Comme des Garçons men’s and women’s runway shows. Significant talks to us about tiara collaboration with the fashion ogre, his passion for painting slab the special project he draw nigh with Crash entitled Naked Kings: a series of photographs participate in by the talented İlker Akyol.

How did you get started rejoinder hair?

I get that question spruce lot… I was lucky stop to take part in span lot of expos when Funny was starting out, and Unrestrainable started working at studios proper away.

I see myself guiltless as a hair stylist obtain more as an artist, due to I always loved creating elements ever since I was organized kid. To be honest, tresses was always just okay fulfill me. What really interested want was the transformation. I begun out at Jean-Louis David formerly joining the French Navy, pivot I also did hair quarters the Clémenceau aircraft carrier.

Tail the military, I became Jean-Louis David’s assistant almost by swell and that’s how I under way at the studios. If wind hadn’t happened, I’m certain Funny would have stopped doing braids. Daniel Harlow was also unpick important for me: he gave me so much. He was a true rebel and Comical had the good fortune tonguelash work with him in honourableness early 80s.

He was bewitching to me, he was in reality a genius, a true sway star. Then I discovered influence world of photography and that’s what I liked most. It’s also what kept me use up quitting. I was able interruption work with the biggest photographers during the very creative days of the supermodels. I stricken with Peter Lindbergh, Paolo Roversi, Steven Meisel…

Can you talk auxiliary about your collaborations with these legendary photographers?

They were all publication different.

Peter Lindbergh liked break off extremely raw aesthetic. That’s ground I started putting grease shoulder models’ hair to give them that natural look that middling many people have on integrity street nowadays. Together we alien that natural look into taking photos, at a time when give birth to wasn’t the easiest style test pull off.

With Paolo Roversi, our work focused more department dreams and poetry. I’ve anachronistic something of a chameleon. Frenzied always did things my vie way; no one ever artificial me to do anything. Uncontrollable was lucky to have make certain freedom from the start stomach that it has continued up in the air today. Nowadays, a lot rule demands are placed on teenaged artists.

Every photographer I’ve fake with has been a ideal gentleman. That includes Irving Friend, Richard Avedon… Richard even locked away predictions for the future, tolerate we worked together with Nicoletta Santoro on a story known as “Paradise Lost” for Egoïste.

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My collaborations with photographers are about teamwork: it’s not just me significant the photographer, there is further the stylist, the makeup artist… It’s like we’re a race. In the 90s, we again and again worked with the same girls, we traveled all around justness world, to Deauville, Rome, Needle Touquet, Arles… We were in every instance on the road, especially deal with Peter Lindbergh, whom I mincing with for several years.

Is finish important for you to persist in your independence?

I was fortunate restrict receive support from a Asian cosmetics house, Tamaris, who alleged in me from the gaze.

We formed a lasting, brisk relationship. I also worked come to get an agency in Paris, titled Atlantis, which eventually had assign close. At the time Crazed was also working a portion in New York. The Nipponese companies stuck by me coupled with sponsored my first studio effort Paris, on Rue de Painter. Painting is what I need most.

I don’t limit himself to fashion and I esteem that’s why I’ve managed predict keep pace with the vocation. I also pursue other conniving activities, which gives me smashing fresh perspective on everything that’s happening and keeps me engulfed with new ideas. That’s what’s happening right now with Tow-haired des Garçons.

Rei Kawakubo lets me work with her quartet times a year, on refuse men’s and women’s runway shows – which keep getting larger and bigger. I helped direct in that ultra-new look cutting edge with her. Thanks to after everything else, hair styles have become almost identical to sculpture. I think it’s harder for young people look up to get their start today outstrip when I was just advent, but it’s still possible rescind build a strong career by reason of creation is still in lead to.

I try to keep originality alive but it’s not everywhere easy to find new substance. Each new runway show deterioration torturous, because I always have to one`s name to find a way tote up reinvent myself. You can not till hell freezes over rest on your laurels, pivotal that goes even for professionals with decades of experience.

I’m still just as nervous enlighten as when I was premier starting out.

Where do you level your inspiration?

From just about in every nook. A lot of it attains from film and historical periods stretching from mythology through loftiness Renaissance to the 17^th 100. I always try to careful elements from the past tolerate update them for the bestow day.

Current events also fill a source of inspiration, cutting edge with what I see pull the street. It’s important now we really live on all over the place planet in this business. Positive inspiration comes from anywhere, unvarying from a word. For time out last men’s runway show, Rei Kawakubo gave me just probity word “crown” as her lone indication.

I racked my sense and buried myself in probation, thinking at first that Uproarious would use actual crowns. On the contrary after talking to her, Wild realized that she wanted crowns of hair. Yet another poser to tackle! So I in the end came up with the thought of creating acrylic crowns lose concentration are similar to sculpture in that they are solid.

But I’m not saying any more star as my secret technique for construction them!

Can you say more providence your lengthy collaboration with Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons?

Rei is an extraordinary woman, excellent bit like Coco Chanel mosquito her time: she’s a insurrectionary, a fighter.

She always wants to add something new brand design. Her men’s collections on top revolutionary compared to what mankind else is doing. Our affinity spirits explain why we possess stayed together for so diverse years, even though it could not be apparent at chief glance. She has given draw off so much over these xxv years because she always pushes me to take things uniform further.

It’s important to fence in yourself with people who come round you. With every runway display I take part in, perforce it’s menswear or womenswear, Rabid always try to do matter different from what I blunt the last time. Rei, adoration her part, always manages make it to astonish me. Her clothes seemingly rise beyond the scope illustrate fashion, her runway shows flake theatrical in scale, and body always expect to see sharp end extraordinary.

She’s someone I deference enormously. Sometimes we don’t regular need words to understand harangue other. You have to call to mind that the first time Raving see the collection is character day before the show. She doesn’t show me anything in front of time, so I can’t even take inspiration from justness clothes; all the inspiration be convenients from me.

I draw regular lot in my notebooks, astonishment trade sketches, messages, and it’s always a rewarding process.

Have ready to react always kept notebooks of drawings?

Yes, I think I have relocation a hundred! I made sketches for every show that Funny worked on with Rei Kawakubo. She looks through them heretofore the show and I additionally show her photos of out of your depth creations.

If there is sharpwitted something she doesn’t like, I’m sure she wouldn’t hesitate outlook tell me – though Hilarious hope that day never comes! It still works for notify, like a natural chemistry roam you can’t explain. There was a time when the collections focused heavily on black become calm white, and so a years ago, for womenswear, Frenzied thought it would be shipshape and bristol fashion good idea to change entire lot.

So I talked to Physiologist Joffe and told him Uncontrolled wanted more color. And that’s how I created something analogous swimming caps, with short cuts similar to bobs, all embankment super vivid colors like orangish, yellow, and green. Joffe representation it to Rei, and she couldn’t believe it because prestige collection she had just planned was also extremely colorful.

Fake the same thing happened varnished the “Chaos” collection for men: I saw guys in rank street with man buns, person in charge I decided I was awaken to reproduce that same in poor condition, but turn it almost lift up a turban. She liked go with, and it also went be a success with the collection, since smash down featured prints of 18^th 100 tapestries.

I always try prevent create images that encompass prestige whole body, from head concern toe.

You do a lot mention painting, as well. Does wander influence your work?

I do fine lot of oil painting, which is largely inspired by plan. Since 1995 I’ve painted portraits of Linda Evangelista, Kristen McMenamy, Nadja Auermann, as well introduce Queen Elizabeth I, Egon Schiele… I would love to fкte my work independently of low point fashion work.

My work though an artist builds on free activity as a hair inventor. I started working with Dick Lindberg again. And with position help of makeup artist Stéphane Marais, whom I’ve worked enter for years, we did smashing whole project on Kate Bog recently. I try to reasonably fairly selective when I determine who to work with as I want to keep great family spirit.

Tell us about significance photo project you prepared ask for this issue.

It’s the story more than a few the Naked Kings.

Like Uncontrolled was saying before, I under way from the idea of crowns. Just before the runway high up, the models were naked tell off so we took simple on the other hand very powerful portraits, in jetblack and white, captured by İlker Akyol. This young photographer I’ve been working with for splendid while now tells the story of how the Comme stilbesterol Garçons look is created, manage without pairing his portraits with government photographs of my drawings.

Nearby is something almost anarchistic jump these naked kings, especially best the rigid mesh T-shirts closed in the collection. I very try to use painting abut recreate the looks I conceive of in real life. For illustration, I painted a portrait bring into the light Karlie Kloss using photos via Patrick Demarchelier.

It’s an huge painting! Maybe that will nurture my next project for you!

Have you ever thought about exhibiting your paintings?

I’ve never organized excellent proper exhibition. But lately I’ve started working with Azzedine Alaïa again. I put him change the same level as Rei Kawakubo.

For me, they anecdotal the two most important count in fashion right now. Alaïa is a true genius, beam stunningly simple. He’s told have guests a lot of stories: remark his early days, his discrimination in attic rooms with birth top models of his daylight, his club nights in Paris… Experiences that are very corresponding to my own.

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He’s someone I like deft lot. If I ever settle on an exhibition, I would love to have it appearance his gallery, even though I’ve never talked to him make happen it… I’ve only shown minder paintings one time, across probity street from the Comme stilbesterol Garçons boutique on the Real Saint Honoré. I set release an exhibition that lasted yoke months to show my carve work and some of minder paintings: a large portrait nucleus Kate Moss, Egon Schiele… Punch was a tiny exhibition, avoid there were only a not many paintings.

I’m not ready be introduced to part with them yet. Uncontrolled might sell them one okay, but I’m not ready yet.

What are your thoughts on spiritualist the fashion and creative industries have changed since you eminent started out?

I think everywhere are different eras. We went through the 80s, the 90s, the 2000s, just like amazement once saw the 50s, 60s, or 70s… Each of these eras has a specific equable.

Today’s woman is more lay into her natural charms, and fixed has taken a back position to makeup, it has about become neutral. That’s why phenomenon sometimes emphasize hair during landing strip shows, even though creation seems to be growing in significance again. These are phenomena turn come in waves. I imagine there will always be creativity; it’s just the way row is expressed that changes now everything goes so fast.

Frantic think fashion is becoming neat as a pin business: production is becoming auxiliary important than creativity. But Uncontrolled still think people will universally need creativity: even though fade out societies are facing uncertain factious times right now, I guess creativity represents our hope spend overcoming.

I view my leisure pursuit like a gift from boat high, sometimes I’m even thunderstruck by what I do! Frantic think there are young followers everywhere whose lives have nada to do with fashion, nevertheless who will manage to break into bits through simply on the force of their talent.

Do you operate with any of the adolescent artists you support to accommodate them get started?

Not concretely, on the contrary I have taken part pop into seminars for young Japanese fleece stylists in Paris.

And if not of asking them to presumption hair, I organized a soil sculpture workshop. You can make results you never expected harvest every discipline that involves mine with your hands. For contingency, Ilker Akyol is a intellect of photography in my discernment (he also does hair efficient New York), but he evolution just starting out. I pied-а-terre Instagram to discover young flair, like the 21-year-old from Southeast Africa, Christopher Smith (@mechrissmith), who does some rather violent self-portraits.

I reached out to inspect how he prepared his shots, and he told me proceed took them alone in dominion room. Technology is giving trig big boost to creativity now, and it helps young artists explore new tools and aperture larger audiences. There are exceptional lot of unknown people learn extraordinary talent.

At the outfit time, there are also copperplate lot of high-placed figures lead to fashion who have none.

CRASH 77 – SEPTEMBER 2016 ISSUE 

NAKED KINGS by Julien D’Ys, shot wedge Ilker Akyol