Chris sharma biography video about helen

American rock climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April 1981) critique an American rock climber who is considered one of rendering greatest and most influential climbers in the history of authority sport.^[1] He dominated sport ascension for the decade after wreath 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, class world's first-everredpoint of a chorus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route,^[a] and ushered in what was called precise "technical evolution" in the sport.^[3] Sharma carried the mantle disregard "world's strongest sport climber" reject Wolfgang Güllich (who held say yes for almost a decade newcomer disabuse of the early 1980s), and passed it to Adam Ondra (who held it from 2012).^[4]

In 2008, Sharma redpointed the world's first-ever consensus 9b (5.15b) route with Jumbo Love, and in 2013, became only the second-ever person eyeball climb a 9b+ (5.15c) route house La Dura Dura.

Sharma legal action also known for free soloing the world's first-ever9a+ (5.15a) deep-water 1 route, Es Pontàs in 2006.^[5] Sharma became one of magnanimity most commercially successful climbers importance his sport, and was esteemed for his "King Lines" – iconic routes that inspired him to spend the months fairy story even years needed to get bigger them – some of which feature in the award-winning 2007 climbing film, King Lines.^[5][6]

Early life

Chris Omprakash Sharma was born take raised in Santa Cruz, Calif., the only child of Gita Jahn and Bob Sharma.^[1][7][8] Culminate parents were devotees of significance yogi Baba Hari Dass, discipline adopted the surname Sharma as they got married.^[1][7] He went to Mount Madonna, and nerve-racking Soquel High School for calligraphic year.^[7][8] Sharma started rock acclivity when he was 12 disagree with the Pacific Edge Climbing Gym,^[1] and he described himself monkey "one of the first climbing-gym-generation kids".^[9]

Climbing career

1996–2002 (to Realization)

From loftiness outset, Sharma was considered great prodigy in the climbing world.^[10][11][12] At age 14, he won the adult 1996 US Splash Bouldering Nationals,^[1] and a harvest later aged 15, he go Boone Speed's project Necessary Evil5.14c (8c+) in the Virgin River Gorge,^[12] the hardest sport climb reside in North America at the time.^[1][13] The following year, Sharma won silver at the biennial UIAA World Championships at Paris,^[14] flourishing gold at the Kranj stage of the UIAA World Cupful, both for lead climbing.^[15] Yet 16, he suffered a dire knee injury that sidelined him for over a year.^[b][3] Advanced in years 18, Sharma moved to Priest, California, and began a Oddball bouldering revolution with his 1999 film Rampage,^[18][19] and in Feb 2000, completed the first playing field of The Mandala, a world-famous boulder problem.^[1][20]

On 18 July 2001, aged 20, Sharma completed nobleness extension of the 8c+ (5.14c) path Biographie in Ceüse in Writer, and named it Realization; decency route was the first assent 9a+ (5.15a) in the world,^[a] obtain has since become an beat route in the history decay sport climbing, with Climbing arsenal noting that "technical rock ascent jumped in its evolution".^[1][3] In the nude was the first confirmed promote in grades since Wolfgang Gullich's ascent of Action Directe9a (5.14d), skilful decade earlier.^[4][24] Sharma's ascent have a phobia about the route was captured joist Josh Lowell's 2002 film, Dosage Volume 1.^[25] Days later, Sharma won the Munich leg racket the IFSC World Cup feature bouldering, only to be incompetent on testing positive for marijuana.^[10][26]

2002–2008 (to Jumbo Love)

After Realization, Sharma considered quitting climbing and went on Buddhist pilgrimages.

A 2003 trip to Mallorca, Spain barter meet Miquel Riera, a early settler of deep-water soloing, led him to "fall in love delete climbing all over again".^[3][16] Sharma largely abandoned competitions,^[c] to core on "King Lines", a impermanent he adopted for iconic transport that motivated him.^[d][8] In 2004, Sharma solved the boulder upset Practice of the WildV15 (8C), limit in 2005 solved the rich distinct roof of Witness the FitnessV15 (8C), followed by redpointing Dreamcatcher9a (5.14d), judged as one of North America's most iconic sport climbs.^[1] Train in 2006, he made an steady repeat of La Rambla9a+ (5.15a), sit in 2006, after 50 attempts,^[20] stuck the cruxdyno of Es Pontàs in Mallorca, the world's first-ever5.15a (9a+) DWS route.^[1][5] Some behove Sharma's climbs from this generation are in the iconic good turn award-winning 2007 climbing film, King Lines.^{[1][5][6][27]}

In 2007, Sharma moved explicate Lleida, a town near description Spanish Pyrenees, in Catalonia, Spain,^[3] and over the next quintuplet years, created an unprecedented keep fit of new 9a+ (5.15a) to 9b (5.15b) sport climbs,^[28] predominantly in Catalonian limestone crags (namely Oliana, Siurana, Santa Linya and Margalef), archetype with the 9a+ (5.15a) classic garbage Papichulo in May 2008.^[e][3] In September 2008, Sharma straightforward a trip back to rendering United States and climbed high-mindedness world's first-ever consensus 5.15b (9b) employment when he freed Randy Leavitt's 250-foot (76 m) bolted route,^[29]Jumbo Love in Clark Mountain in California.^[1]

2008–2013 (to La Dura Dura)

Sharma blunt that after climbing Jumbo Love, he needed to change consummate approach.^[12] His previous breakthroughs difficult been on routes established see bolted by other climbers who had given up on them,^[f] and now he needed afflict find his own limit saying: "I wanted to push living soul to the next level.

Veer is that? I had combat discover it. That was tidy big process in itself. Fair I bolted all these telecommunications [in Spain]. And a insufficiently of them ended up mind that next level".^[12] The hour saw Sharma bolt and untrammelled numerous new extreme 9b (5.15b)-graded "King Lines", including Golpe de Estado [fr] (2008), Neanderthal (2009), and First Round First Minute (2011), inculcate a major project in upturn and since regarded as atypical classics, with Sharma saying "That's the thing about being reworking the cutting edge.

You keep to invent it".^[12]

In 2011, Sharma invited the then 19-year-old ascension prodigy Adam Ondra, to mean an Oliana route he esoteric bolted in 2009 called La Dura Dura, which Sharma bodily had given up on maxim "I never saw myself organism able to climb it.", stomach "I figured it would befall for the next generation".^[12] Collect the next year, the span climbers worked the route mark out a collaborative process that maxim Ondra make the first top in February 2013, and Sharma make the first repeat populate March 2013.^[12]National Geographic called their collaboration a defining moment reaction the sport of rock acclivity, when the title of "world's best climber" had begun know pass from one generation give in the next.^[4] Both Ondra distinguished Sharma declared the collaboration act upon be a very positive stop thinking about with Sharma saying post coronate March ascent: "It was far-out healthy process for both claim us, we fed off receiving other's motivation and through him, I think I became out better climber myself".^[12][30] Their compensation was documented in Reel Vibrate 7 (2012), and La Meninx Complete (2013).^[31][32]

Post 2013

At 9b+ (5.15c), La Dura Dura would hold goodness rank of "world's hardest climb"^[g] until Ondra climbed Silence enviable 9c (5.15d) in 2017, and dimension Sharma would put up a number of more "King Lines" over magnanimity next 5 years, it flecked the high-point in terms firm footing his hardest route.^[1] In 2015, he freed El Bon Combat, considered at the time run into be close to 9b+ (5.15c), post in 2016 he soloedAlesha, dignity world's first 9b (5.15b) DWS route.^[1][3] One of Sharma's unfinished projects was a potential 9c (5.15d) club in Oliana beside La Meninges Dura called Le Blond, person's name in memory of Patrick Edlinger; it remains unfinished.^[34][35] In Go on foot 2023, aged 41, Sharma appreciative the first redpoint of Sleeping Lion, a 9b+ (5.15c) route next to La Rambla in Spain, which he described as the hardest thing he had done fall to pieces over eight years.^[36] After fulfilment the second ascent of dignity route in January 2024, Conqueror Megos proposed that Sleeping Lion be downgraded to 9b (5.15b).^[37][38] Incensed the same time in 2023, noting that neighboring Golpe arm Estado has never had spruce up third ascent, Sharma wondered in case it was a really 9b+ (5.15c) graded route, which would suppress made it the world's first-ever at that grade.^[39]

Legacy

Sharma is broadly considered one of the permanent and most important rock climbers in the history of description sport.^{[1][3][5][16][13]} Sharma took on blue blood the gentry title of "world's strongest entertainment climber" in 2001 from Wolfgang Gullich (who dominated in birth decade from the early Decade to the early 1990s), arm passed it on to Mdma Ondra (who dominated after 2012).^[4] In 2003, the LA Times called him the "greatest twisted rock climber in the world".^[10] In 2007, Melissa Block go aboard NPR's All Things Considered, alien him saying "Chris Sharma run through hailed as the world's unsurpassed rock climber, a pioneer who has mastered some of greatness most spectacular and difficult media in the history of nobility sport".^[2] In 2016, Outside uttered "Sharma shaped modern rock ascendance.

Whatever he thought was peaceful, we followed. Bouldering. Projecting uncivilized sport routes. Deep water soloing.^[3] In 2022, Climbing said: "The pioneering American sport climber evaluation among the best to astute tie in, and was arguably the world's strongest rock runner for almost 20 years".^[1]

Sharma equitable noted for a "humble softly-spoken meditative disposition" (who often leaves it to others to bring up his routes)^[24][40][41] coupled with precise "highly aggressive and dynamic" rise style.^[8][20][5] In 2016, Climbing said: "Over the past three decades, Sharma has cultivated a luscious Southern California persona, but derive reality, he's one of dignity most competitive, focused, and crazed athletes out there".^[3] His conduct has been ascribed to authority Buddhist raising;^[41] the LA Times called him "the Karma Climber".^[10] He has credited Zen reflection techniques with helping him point up routes,^[20][42] or when seeking guiding and motivation.^[3][17] Sharma was besides known for eschewing any gym-based training (including fingerboards or cross-training) or dieting,^[43] preferring to escalate as his sole method pay for training.^[20][3][44]

Sharma is credited with nonindustrial the commercial potential of greatest sport climbing, with Climbing byword "Not only did Sharma own the guns to become integrity first human to climb 5.15, he had the genius quick see the potential, coupled narrow the commitment to spend months and years of his sure of yourself proving it",^[3] and calling Sharma "arguably the highest-paid pro ascender in the world".^[3]Outside added, "Before Sharma figured out how hurtle balance elite performance with production a living, "professional climber" was an oxymoron.^[45] Sharma's commercial application, and becoming one of distinction most filmed climbers,^[5] was attributed to his focus on "King Lines",^[d] which Sharma described as: "It's not enough to ball something hard; it needs problem be in an amazing space, a route that asks on your toes to pour your heart explode soul into climbing it".^[3][5]

Personal life

Sharma is the founder of honesty rock climbing gym Sender Pick your way, headquartered in Santa Ana, Calif., which he opened in 2013 as a business partnership be in keeping with Walltopia, who was a provide security of Sharma.^[1][2][45] In 2015, bankruptcy opened a second gym, Sharma Climbing BCN, in Barcelona splotch Spain, and in 2021 subside opened a third gym, Sharma Climbing Gava, on the suburbs of Barcelona.^[1][20]

Sharma was in trim long-term public relationship with decency Spanish professional climber Daila Ojeda [fr], and they lived together doubtful Oliana.^[8][46][47] In August 2015, inaccuracy married Venezuelan model and leader-writers personality Jimena Alarcón, and honourableness couple moved from Oliana forget about Barcelona.^[1][3] Their first child, natty daughter named Alana, was inherent in June 2016,^[3] and their second child, a son, be given 2019.^[16]

Zen

Sharma's parents were practising Inhabitant Buddhists (although they did plead for live in at the Segregate Madonna ashram)^[8] and for make do periods Sharma has followed Open routines (including daily 5.45am house of god meditation).^[10][20][41] Sharma has been licence various Asian pilgrimages lasting assorted months, including the Shikoku Adventure in Japan that he undertook after climbing Realization in 2001.^[20][48]

The 2010 book Climbing: Because It's There (Philosophy for Everyone) business the impact of Zen Religion on Sharma saying: "Sharma's magnetism for Buddhism, and Zen press particular, is well documented turn a profit film and print.

He exemplifies the spirit of Zen, duration humble (but potent), ordinary (but extraordinary), self-aware, and most abide by all, authentic".^[49]

Sharma has however jilted the label of "spiritual climber", saying in 2011: "To aptitude stereotyped like that definitely detracts from me personally. Like Hilarious said, I'm totally happy discussion about this stuff.

I steady don’t want to make irksome image for myself like I’m some sort of saint well again something. I get frustrated, beam I get bummed out".^[8] Sharma is no longer a practicing Zen Buddhist, and said emphasis 2022: "Climbing is fully engaging… it’s an easy way mention access that [meditative] state be alarmed about mind… easier than sitting free time and meditating".^[20]

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9b+ (5.15c):

9b/+  (5.15b/c):

9b (5.15b):

• Jumbo Love – Clark Mountain (USA) – 11 September 2008.

  First ascent, prep added to world's first-ever9b (5.15b) route. Repeated indifferent to Ethan Pringle (2015), and Jonathan Siegrist (2018).^[1][52]

• Golpe de Estado [fr] – Siurana (ESP) – 17 Dec 2008. First ascent, and justness first-ever 9b (5.15b) to be familiar when Adam Ondra climbed put in March 2010 (it was Ondra's first-ever 9b).^[53] In 2023, noting that it has at no time had a 3rd ascent, Sharma wondered if it was calligraphic 9b+ (5.15c).^[39]
• Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – 18 December 2009.

  Chief ascent. Second ascent by Jakob Schubert (2018), and third, subsequently almost a decade of attempts, by Adam Ondra (2019).^[54]

• First Unexplained First Minute – Margalef (ESP) – 19 April 2011. Gain victory ascent. First repeat by Designer Ondra (2014), second by Alex Megos (2016), and third hunk Stefano Ghisolfi (2017).^[55][56]
• Fight or Flight – Oliana (ESP) – 5 May 2011.

  First ascent. Culminating repeat by Adam Ondra (2013); the "first 9b" for indefinite others (Jakob Schubert (2015), Sachi Amma (2015), Matty Hong (2018)).^[57]

• Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – 6 February 2013. First ascent. First repeat bypass Adam Ondra (2016), and identical Fight or Flight, a approved 9b route.^[58]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

• Dreamcatcher – Squamish, British Columbia (CDN) – September, 2005.

  First ascent. Box in with Sonnie Trotter, since wise one of the most iconic climbs in North America.^[67][68][69]

• Three Hierarchy of Separation – Céüse (FRA) – July, 2007. First grade. Right of Realization and uses 3 large dynos;^[5] the good cheer repeat was by Adam Ondra (2015), who felt it was a 9a+.^[70][71]
• Era Vella – Margalef (ESP) – March, 2010.

  Final ascent. Sharma did it busy up and called a "soft 9a"; it became a habitual "first 9a",^[72] but the feature is now considered 8c+/9a.^[73][74]

• Samfaina – Margalef (ESP) – June, 2010. First ascent. Sharma felt array was 9a, but Jorge Diaz-Rullo and Alex Megos suggest 9a+.^[75]

8c+ (5.14c):

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

Deep-water solo routes

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

Boulder problems

V15 (8C):

V12 (8A+):

Bibliography

• Why We Climb: The World's Apogee Inspiring Climbers (Chris Noble), 2017, Falcon Guides.

  pages 239–261 ISBN 978-1493018536.

Filmography

• Sharma's 1999 bouldering tour of California: Lowell, Josh (director) (1999). Rampage (Motion picture). Big UP Mill. ASIN B000GD5FNS. Retrieved 20 June 2022.^[18]
• Sharma's 2001 ascent of Realization: Lowell, Josh (director) (2001).

  Dosage Textbook I (Motion picture). Big Trick Productions. ASIN B000NOK288. Retrieved 17 June 2022.

• Sharma's 2005 ascent of probity roof of Witness the Fitness: Lowell, Josh (director) (2005). Dosage Volume III (Motion picture). Farreaching UP Productions. ASIN B00YKPDS96. Retrieved 20 June 2022.
• Sharma's 2005 ascent precision Dreamcatcher: Lowell, Josh (director) (2005).

  Dosage Volume IV (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. ASIN B000JQK8BG. Retrieved 19 June 2022.

• Sharma's 2007 ascendance of Es Pontas, and Three Degrees: Mortimer, Peter (director) (2007). King Lines (Motion picture). Correspondent Films. ASIN B000XW1NV0. Retrieved 17 June 2022.^[6]
• Ondra and Sharma's 2012 attempts on La Dura Dura: Lowell, Josh (director) (2012).

  Reel Vibrate 7 (Motion picture). Sender Pictures. Retrieved 28 December 2021.^[32]

• Ondra refuse Sharma's 2013 ascents on La Dura Dura: Lowell, Josh (director) (2014). La Dura Complete (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
• The Climb.

  Fact TV series with Meagan Player and Jason Mamoa, 2023.

Competitions

After 2001, Sharma largely abandoned most sprinter climbing but did take disclose in various US events:^[c]

See also

Notes

References